Clothing made of cheap polyester is driving up fashion’s emissions

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🗞️ Driving the news: Greenhouse gas emissions from the apparel industry rose 7.5% in 2023—the first annual increase since 2019—reaching 944 million metric tons, according to a new report by the Apparel Impact Institute (Aii)
• The surge is attributed to rapid production growth and increased reliance on virgin polyester, a fossil-fuel-derived plastic, as ultrafast fashion accelerates globally

🔭 The context: Polyester now accounts for 57% of global fiber production, with usage of recycled alternatives declining due to higher costs and complex recycling processes
• Fast fashion giants, known for low-cost, trend-driven garments, are driving high emissions across the supply chain, from raw material extraction to assembly
• Meanwhile, mounting evidence links synthetic textiles to microplastic pollution and harmful chemical residues

🌍 Why it matters for the planet: The apparel sector contributes roughly 2% of global emissions, with significant additional impacts from waste, pollution, and resource use
• Without swift action, growing consumer demand—especially for cheap synthetic clothing—risks locking in high-emission production models
• Shifting to lower-impact materials, innovative recycling, and demand-led production could offer scalable solutions but remain underfunded and underutilized

⏭️ What's next: Governments are stepping in: France has passed a law to tax fast fashion items €5 per piece by 2030, while U.S. lawmakers are supporting secondhand markets to reduce textile waste
• Industry leaders like Tapestry and Reju are piloting advanced recycling and material innovation
• Yet the sector remains dependent on low-cost fossil-based inputs, especially in regions reliant on coal-powered manufacturing
• Broader adoption of decarbonized sourcing, inventory management, and long-term supplier contracts will be essential for structural change

💬 One quote: “One of my pet peeves in the sector is when people say ‘it’s not scale ready, or it’s not scalable.’” – Lewis Perkins, President, Apparel Impact Institute

📈 One stat: Apparel industry emissions reached 944 million metric tons in 2023—equivalent to 2% of global emissions

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